Hello, friends and whisky enthusiasts. Old, new and everything in between! Perhaps you’ve been following me since the beginning, or maybe you’ve just stumbled onto this write-up from the mighty forces of the Internet. In any case, welcome to another side-by-side tasting where, together with you, I compare two whiskies, pick apart their notes, and maybe learn something new along the way. On today’s docket are two 12-year-old cask-strength single malts from Islay. Both are non-chill filtered and uncoloured and thus receive my coveted integrity star. So let’s dive into this because I am a bit excited. But first, we need music! Now Playing: Max Richter – SLEEP: Tranquility Base.

The first single malt is courtesy of Cask Explorers‘ Advent Calendar Ruby Edition, which I’ve been going through since December 2022. I’m only on dram number six, and so far, I am pretty happy with this journey, as it lies somewhere in the middle of the accessible whiskies – not too top or bottom shelf. As I’ve stated in my past write-ups, I highly recommend this adventure to everyone, including the connoisseurs. So, here we have a 12-year-old Bunnahabhain single malt, which is an annual release “inspired by visitor cask strength tastings in the distillery’s iconic Warehouse 9.” This is a 2021 Edition bottled at a cask strength of 55.1% from an ex-sherry cask. We can talk about the colour because it is 100% genuine, and it is that of burnished copper. I can smell the sherry on the nose, with stewed and dried fruit (think raisins, date, plums, figs – that sort of thing). It goes down neat easily, even with this pretty high alcohol content. The flavour profile here is very complex, swinging between sweet and sour notes [the way a well-dried prune would], hitting every possible core tastes, including umami. There is no peat here at all – it’s just a wonderfully layered sherry monster, and I have a pretty wide smile on my face because we’re off to a great start!

Let’s turn to Lagavulin now, which I purposely picked for this tasting because it’s of the same age, also at a cask strength of 56.5% ABV, and also an integrity bottling from Islay. But the similarities end there. It is much lighter in colour – it’s that of a pale straw. There is no sherry influence in this ex-bourbon bottling. There is plenty of the beloved peat on the nose now, and it’s a little prickly with the alcohol. It’s not medicinal but gentle, fiery smoke. The arrival is a little hot and dry. There is that famous Lagavulin peat again, and I absolutely love it, but I can tell that this dram will need to take some water to really open up. I’ve added just a bit of water to both Glencairns now and will try them side by side again. The Bunnahabhain really opened up, and it is remarkably fragrant now with all that wet-cask sherry flavour. It tastes a lot less sour now [this is because I’ve tasted the Lagavulin!], and it is gently sweet, with darker corners of that toasted caramel. The Lagavulin, too, has eased down on the monster. It’s like a pouring little lion now, wrapped in a fuzzy, cuddly blanket. But all the notes of peat are there, the maritime saltiness and the barbeque smoke. I’ve previously compared this entry to Diageo Special Releases for 2021 next to the “standard” 16-year-old, and you can read my tasting notes here.

Distillery / Region	Bunnahabhain / Islay	Lagavulin / Islay
Producer	Distell International Ltd	Diageo
Bottler / Series	Distillery bottling / Cask strength series	Distillery bottling / Special Releases 2021
Stated Age / Vintage	12 years old / 2009	12 years old / 2009
Cask type	Ex-sherry	Ex-bourbon Refill American oak
ABV / Cask Strength	55.1% / Yes!	56.5% / Yes!
Non-chill filtered/ Uncoloured	Yes / Yes 🌟	Yes / Yes 🌟
Price	£70-90	£130 and up
Did it win? / Did I like it?	Yes / Yes!	No / Yes!
Would I buy it? / Recommend it?	Yes!!! / Yes – but be prepared for no peat!	Yes / Yes, grab them while they last!

I’ll tell you, this was a very difficult bout because they’re just so different in profile. We’re basically on two opposite spectrums of Islay quality malts here. In the left corner, you have a sherried non-peated single malt. In the right corner, it’s the champion of champions, with signature flavours that make this Scotch one of my all-time favourites. They go at it again! The Lagavulin swings, and it’s a classic move, it jabs in all the right places and does not disappoint. It’s as effective as it is familiar, and there are zero issues to complain about in its delivery and execution. But Bunna stands its ground as an unlikely contender to this celebrated champ. And it’s an unexpected dodging move that seems to bring it back on top. It’s just surprising in its stance, and for that reason alone, I think I have to give it recognition. Be sure to also note the price difference in the above table! I guess, for you or for your friends, it will all be up to the flavour profile. You will either align with peat or with that sherry monster. But for me, I was surprised by how much the Bunna has delivered, and for that alone, I will proclaim the Bunnahabhain 12-year-old as the winner of this round.